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As a 74 yr old surfer, that started back in the early 60s and now only stand up paddle surf. I related to so much of what Lance had to say, especially the references to the comradery of the old days, the influence of his father, the regrets , and the humbling effects of age, Beautiful interview..loved the idea of God's blessings in advance....Thanks Lance for the honesty.

This man changed my life

Skip Frye is a legend to my dad Joe Quigg, who knew him and liked him a lot.

Being a bit late to the game here, this was a fantastic interview with one of the best ever. Thanks

Saw a sticker on a new surfer’s vehicle at my spot that said “Mouse would go”, so I had to ask. I just gained a wealth of surf history from this video. 🤙🏾A true legend

Surfed with Skip for a number of years at PBPoint. He was always friendly and amazing to watch. Our club competed against windensea surf club at San Miguel in Baja. Skip won it on his green wide 9/4 board. Later at PB point I asked if I could ride his board and said sure. I loved it and a few months later he gave it me. In 1968 I was going to Hawaii to surf in the Makkah Championship and I saw him at Sunset Cliffs with three different guns. I asked him if he would shape me a board from Hawaii and he said he was only taking two of guns he was testing for the World Contest in Pueto Rico and i could have the one he didn’t take. He gave an 18 in wide pin tail gun and I had the pleasure to ride it for three weeks in Hawaii. The highlight was riding it in 15 ft Sunset Beach waves. Remember in those days there were no leaches and a lost board may cost your your board as it went into the beach and was caught in the rip and taken out to sea to never be seen again.

😍

Skip was a great guy. Very quite but friendly. He talked about the Pueto Rico world championships. He had built boards for me to n the past when I saw him at Sunset Cliffs and asked him about a board for my trip to Hawaii in 1968. He said I’m testing these three boards for the world contest and I’ll give you the one I don’t take. It was a 20” gun and we took on the north shore in style.

why aren't there non-white people surfing. it's like golf.

Thought the host did ok 👍

A Malibu legend for sure 👍

Awesome! Very nice Guy!

Thank God I too had my days at Malibu.

Lance: Great interview! As you know, I was there! We rode many waves through the period. Parties too! Oh yeah, Cars, your 40 coupe, my 47 woodie. Still have my 48 woodie. So much fun! You and I and the other guys had the best upbringing anyone growing up in the USA ever had! I talk to Tom Morey at least once a month. So lucky to have all the friends that we made along the way! Your friend Tim Tuthill

Really like his gratitude towards God, the early days at Malibu must have felt like Heaven.

Excellent interview with arguably the best surfer to ever ride Malibu. This interview is well conducted. He was permitted to relate his thoughts as articulate as they are. His eyes are a sharp as a Perigrine Falcon, and you captured that too. You did justice to an American Treasure. Thank you.

Lance is a great man and looks fantastic for his age. Lance used to come into the Malibu Chart House a lot when I worked there as a waiter in the late 70's and early 80's. He always drank coffee in the then classic cobalt blue coffee cups that the Chart had. Lance was a long time sober and treated all of us great. He didn't act like a big shot as he was living life one day at a time and staying sober. The reason he looks so great is because he hasn't poisoned his body for the last 40 years. I also remember when he got back into surfing and seeing him at First Point Malibu and another surfing legend Buzz Sutphin (RIP). It was a real pleasure for me to surf with them and to watch them ride waves. Buzz Sutphin was my first manager at the Malibu Chart House. I bugged him everyday to give me a job after I was finished surfing Topanga or Malibu. I went in everyday and asked for a job, one day he said to me "Rocky, today is your lucky day, I need a dishwasher now, be here at 4:30pm so I can get you up to speed. Great times.

The host didn’t do too much homework. He was way off on many points. Thank goodness Skip was forgiving and saved this interview.

Lance looks great. I discovered Malibu in 1958 as a 7 year old kid. Was much the same as described - out in the country.

Mr Frye changed the way I design, shape and build my boards. Thanks for posting this. A true legend.

So cool!!

Amazing Lance As Always

the 'Baby boom' as well as technology had to do w/ the 60's growth of the sport...

kseshspoopy: In those days that shot would be very special and unique as in George Greenough's "The Innermost Limits of Pure Fun" (1970) Now any Jack wad can do it. The Camera in that shot at 3:04 was be fired by remote control by Ben Ziegfried who was on the beach. He was a real innovator. Hey Ben did those shots come out?

Matthew that's precious. Some times miracles happen. If your lucky your off that day (because it was in the middle of the work week) and have a camera at the ready

Patrick Troy: In those days, for TV, we had to have royalty free music. You couldn't just use a popular song cause you would get sued. There was no buying music on the internet so what I did was obtain music from local bands who really enjoyed having themselves promoted on TV. Try this, I find it works fine. Mute the audio. ;)

In those days, for TV, we had to have royalty free music. You couldn't just use a popular song cause you would get sued. There was no buying music on the internet so what I did was obtain music from local bands who really enjoyed having themselves promoted on TV. Try this, I find it works fine. Mute the audio. ;)

Fall 1998

Thanks ozankaya because I surfed it for three hours before my cord broke. So I started shooting video after my session.

Looks like it was filmed in 1994/95 given the board shapes.

3:04 good thing we got go pros now

Righton

Huge respect to these guys. Pedaling out there is a big challenge on it's own.

Awesome!

Reminds me of north Coronado past the fence on the Naval base with a north wind! Ive caught that place fast and hollow a few times!

What a treat for you Coronado locals. I have never seen it even close to being that good.

I remember MD primarily in the days he worked w/ Bill Bahne in the early & mid 70's - back in the La Paloma Concert days (called them then 'The Surfboard Barons' - as opposed to 'Railroad Barons' - they helped finance the concerts.. I wish I wasn't so intimidated by these guys, as this vid proves.. anywhooo, I wasn't aware how great a raconteur he is - whether you're a surfer, a waterman or not... thanks, senor Doyle...

nice to see that there's not a bunch of standup longboring ers in your way back then they are like fucking kyakers and are the ugliest thing ive ever seen in the lineup so glad i stopped surfing while it was still fun

music sucks

YES PLEASE

id say 15-20 foot faces

I see this guy all the time on the reef

yeah it is. its indacators

He is a true gift to our sport and our town of ob. -Clarke

...bitchen....

I left out the opening because I do not have the rights to the weather channel, which I used int the original & shortened it a bit to make it palatable for this generation.

How shallow can the water get over the reef?

everyones riding huge boards haha

Hey colonia, everyone has different measurements. I say freeze the video when a surfer is at the biggest part of the wave, put a measurement on the surfer i.e. like the tip of your index finger to the first knuckle,Be conservative and say that he 5.5ft. tall, stack it from the bottom and Voila! You've got the size.

The1235Bigman Why do you ask "how long ago was this filmed" Try guess Bra.